How to read cartridge markings
The name of every permanent makeup cartridge tells you three things: how many needles there are and how they are arranged, what taper it has and what diameter.
1RL is a single needle in a round liner configuration, the basis of hair stroke and outline work. 3RL is three needles in the same configuration: a stronger line, shading, faster filling. MG, or magnum, is the configuration for shading and powder brows. F, or flat, is the flat configuration for filling and stronger coverage.
The number in millimetres is the needle diameter. The smaller it is, the more subtle the mark. The NANO marking applies to the finest variants.
Taper, the shape of the needle point
This is the parameter that changes the character of the work the most, and at the same time the one most often skipped when choosing a cartridge. Taper is the length of the cone over which the needle narrows to the point. It decides how deep the needle goes and how hard it works.
LT, long taper, is more aggressive. The needle goes deeper, so the pigment is deposited more strongly. This is the choice for skin that takes colour poorly, for thicker skin and for work where saturation has to be decisive.
MT, medium taper, works more gently. The entry into the skin is shallower and softer, so it traumatises less. Hence MT for thin, sensitive, vascular and mature skin, for work around the eye and anywhere you want a subtle mark.
You see the difference from the first pass. The same diameter in a long and a medium taper behaves like two different needles, not like two variants of the same one.
Available configurations
- 1RLMT 0.18 NANO and 1RLMT 0.20 NANO: the finest variants, for very subtle hair strokes and work on thin skin.
- 1RLMT 0.25 NANO and 1RLLT 0.25 NANO: the same diameter in two tapers. A good pair to start with, to feel the difference between a medium and a long taper.
- 1RLMT 0.30 and 1RLLT 0.30: a stronger mark, the LT version works well on thicker and resistant skin.
- 1RLMT 0.40: the thickest single variant, for a decisive line.
- 3RLLT 0.25: three needles with a long taper, for more strongly built shading.
- 7MG: magnum for shading and the powder technique.
- 7F: flat for filling and strong coverage.
What the cartridge is made of
A hard membrane. This is a deliberate choice, not a compromise. A hard membrane cushions the movement of the needle, so the impact against the skin is smaller. In practice that means less trauma during the procedure and less swelling after it, and on top of that fewer vibrations transferred to your hand throughout the work. The membrane also acts as a barrier and keeps the pigment inside the cartridge.
Surgical steel. The needles are made of surgical steel, the same class of material as medical instruments. It does not cause allergies, does not abrade and does not react with the pigment, so the colour you apply is the colour that stays in the skin.
Abrasion resistant plastic. The cartridge body is made of medical grade plastic that does not shed dust or leave micro particles during work.
Machine compatibility
OVA Sugarbird cartridges fit machines with a Cheyenne mount, including: Bellar, Biomaser P60 and P90, Cheyenne, EQUALISER Proton MX, Hawk, Izzy Pro, Mast. If your machine uses this standard, the cartridge will fit.
Frequently asked questions
MT or LT, where do I start?
With MT if you work mainly on thin and sensitive skin, or if you are only getting to know the line. With LT when the skin takes pigment poorly and you need stronger deposition. The simplest way is to take the same diameter in both versions and work them side by side, the difference is clear after a few lines.
Why a hard membrane?
It cushions the work of the needle, so the impact against the skin is weaker. Less trauma during the procedure and less swelling after it, plus fewer vibrations in your hand.
How many cartridges are in a pack?
Ten pieces, in one configuration chosen when you order.
Are these needles suitable for tattooing as well?
Yes, the line was created as universal, for work in PMU and in tattooing.
How does the soft version differ?
Sugarbird Soft needles have a gentler working character and are often chosen for sensitive and mature skin.
If you want everything in one place, we wrote out the markings, taper, diameters and how to match them to a technique in how to choose needles for permanent makeup.
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